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🎞️ Euljiro Alley Culture — Seoul’s Retro Soul Hidden in Neon Light
Between Myeongdong’s shopping crowds and Dongdaemun’s markets lies Euljiro — a neighborhood where old Seoul meets new counterculture. By day, it’s a maze of printing shops and metal workshops; by night, it transforms into a retro nightlife zone filled with neon lights, jazz echoes, and smoky alleys. Known locally as “Hipjiro”, this district captures the creative rebellion of Seoul’s youth. Here’s your insider’s guide to the alleys where time stands still — yet creativity never stops.
1️⃣ The Printing Alley — Where Industry Meets Art
Euljiro’s identity began with its printing and metalwork shops, established in the 1960s. Generations of craftsmen still run tiny workshops where signs, posters, and metal nameplates are made by hand. These alleys now attract artists and photographers fascinated by their analog beauty — oil stains, faded fonts, and old machinery humming under warm bulbs. Some print shops have even become micro art galleries or cafés, preserving Seoul’s industrial aesthetic in its purest form. If you’re a creative traveler, this is the beating heart of old-school Seoul.
- 📍 Location: Euljiro 3-ga Station (Exit 1–3)
- 🖨️ Highlight: Handmade typography shops & steel printing presses
- 💡 Tip: Ask before taking photos inside workshops — artisans value privacy
| Shop Name | Type | Specialty |
|---|---|---|
| Daehan Printing | Typography | Retro Korean signage |
| Jin Metal Works | Art fabrication | Brass nameplates & decor |
| Print Alley Café | Converted workshop | Art displays & coffee |
2️⃣ Retro Bars & Neon Nights
As the sun sets, Euljiro’s narrow alleys light up in neon pink and turquoise. Hidden bars open behind steel doors, serving craft cocktails among vintage posters and vinyl players. “Eulji OB Bear” remains a classic — a 1980s beer hall reborn into a retro-cool icon. Nearby, “Taphouse Eulji” offers 20+ Korean craft beers under warm filament lights. The atmosphere feels like Blade Runner meets old Seoul — gritty, nostalgic, and undeniably photogenic. Every signboard glows like a time capsule from Korea’s urban past.
- 🍺 Must-Visit: OB Bear Hall (founded 1980)
- 🎶 Try: Honey Pale Ale from The Booth Brewery
- 💡 Photo Tip: Shoot at 8PM for neon reflections & alley silhouettes
3️⃣ Hidden Restaurants & Midnight Dining
Euljiro’s culinary scene hides in basements and rooftops. From gopchang (grilled intestines) stalls to underground ramen shops, each eatery has its own loyal crowd. One of the most famous spots is “Eulji Myeonok”, serving Pyongyang-style cold noodles in a 1946-era building — a true taste of Seoul’s culinary heritage. For adventurous foodies, “Mukshidonna Underground” offers spicy tteokbokki fusion under vintage lighting. The charm lies in discovery — there’s no signboard, just whispers among locals and the smell of charcoal in the air.
| Restaurant | Signature Dish | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Eulji Myeonok | Naengmyeon (Cold Noodles) | ₩10,000–₩13,000 |
| Mukshidonna Underground | Spicy Fusion Tteokbokki | ₩9,000–₩12,000 |
| Baram Dakgalbi | Stir-fried Chicken | ₩12,000–₩18,000 |
4️⃣ Indie Music & Underground Art Spaces
Euljiro thrives after dark with indie bands and underground DJs. Spaces like “Café Commas” host unplugged live sessions, while “Channel 1969” draws art students and travelers with electronic beats. These venues sit inside repurposed factories, creating a raw, urban soundscape that contrasts sharply with polished Gangnam clubs. It’s a community of creativity — musicians, photographers, and designers collaborate freely, shaping a distinctly Seoul-style bohemian scene.
- 🎧 Venue: Channel 1969 (Euljiro 4-ga)
- 🎤 Tip: Open-mic nights every Thursday
- 💡 Mood: Think “Berlin underground meets Korean indie”
5️⃣ Neon Nostalgia & Street Photography
Euljiro is a paradise for photographers. From flickering neon lights to metallic textures, every frame feels cinematic. Film photographers especially love the balance of warm tungsten glow and vintage shopfronts. Street art pops up around Euljiro Nogari Alley, where beer drinkers spill onto the pavement under endless bulbs. Whether it’s analog signage or neon haze, this district transforms ordinary nights into retro masterpieces.
- 📷 Ideal Gear: 35mm film or low-light DSLR
- 🌆 Best Time: 7–9PM after rain (for reflection shots)
- 💡 Hashtags: #Hipjiro #SeoulNeon #RetroSeoul
6️⃣ Craft Beer & Community Spaces
Seoul’s craft beer revolution began here. Local microbreweries like Seoul Brewery and Beer O’Clock host tasting events where travelers mingle with locals. Pop-up beer gardens appear during summer, often paired with art shows and food trucks. Unlike Gangnam’s luxury bars, Euljiro’s drinking scene feels communal — everyone shares tables, playlists, and stories over hand-poured ales. It’s a subculture built not on status, but on shared creativity.
| Brewery | Beer Type | Highlight |
|---|---|---|
| Seoul Brewery | Pale Ale | Local hops & music nights |
| The Booth | Session IPA | Street bar pop-up |
| Beer O’Clock | Wheat Beer | Community tasting tables |
7️⃣ Experiencing “Hipjiro” — The Spirit of Subculture Seoul
Euljiro isn’t polished, and that’s its beauty. Here, imperfections become inspiration — graffiti, rust, and flickering signs tell stories of resilience. You’ll meet tattoo artists sketching in cafés, filmmakers scouting alleys, and young locals crafting their identities beyond mainstream culture. It’s Seoul at its rawest — artistic, unfiltered, and deeply human. If you want to feel the city’s heartbeat beyond the tourist guidebooks, Euljiro’s alley maze is where to start.
- 🕒 Best Route: Eulji 3-ga → Printing Alley → OB Bear → Channel 1969
- 🎶 Playlist: “Midnight Seoul Lo-fi” on Spotify
- 📍 Map: Search “Euljiro Alley Culture” on Google Maps

